Why we pour old world wines with our steaks

28 April 2026

Why we pour old world wines with our steaks

There is a received wisdom in steakhouse culture: big beef needs big wine. A heavily oaked Napa cabernet. A fruit-forward Shiraz. Something that matches the meat pound for pound.

We disagree, and our wine list reflects that.

Old World wines cut; they do not compete. A well-aged Burgundy, say a village-level Gevrey-Chambertin with some years on it, does not try to overpower a well-marbled wagyu. Its acidity lifts the fat, its earthiness deepens the savouriness of the beef, and its restraint lets the kitchen's work remain at the centre of the plate.

Barolo for the long dinner. For our dry-aged beef, we often recommend a Barolo or Barbaresco. The tannin structure of Nebbiolo is one of the great natural partners for collagen-rich, aged beef. The two soften each other in a way that makes both more interesting.

Champagne more than you think. We serve more Champagne with steak than most restaurants. A non-vintage blanc de blancs at the start of a meal, alongside oysters or steak tartare, is one of the more underrated combinations on our menu. The high acidity and fine mousse reset the palate between bites.

Our sommelier is available at every service to guide you through the list. If you have a bottle in mind that is not on our menu, speak to us. We operate a small but considered cellar, and we are always willing to have a conversation.

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